Budapest is not only a spa town, but also a city for hiking, as you don’t even have to leave its borders for a good hike.

For those who love leisure activities, the Hungarian capital is a true paradise: there is hardly any sport that you can’t do here. The hills surround the Buda side, and public transport is well organised, so you can quickly reach all points of the Buda Hills. One of the most popular of the many sites is still Normafa, where many of the locals gather on weekends to clear their heads and lungs while taking a long walk in the woods.

Normafa is a convenient 19-minute bus ride from Széll Kálmán Square, where you can also try the gyermekvasút and the funicular. It is also easy to get here from the city centre, with bus 210 from North Pest to Svábhegy on weekdays and a direct bus service to Normafa on weekends.

As soon as you get off the bus, after a 2-minute walk you arrive in the forest, where, walking along the narrow paths and looking down into the valley, you can see small and large groups of people happily chatting and eating. There are also university students, high school students, pensioners and families with young children, but we have also met a small group of foreign Wolt couriers who have spent their day off here, bringing out and eating their own national cuisine. There’s a real multicultural vibe, which gives something of the vibrancy of Budapest, but it’s balanced well by the environment and nature.

How did Normafa get its name? In early writings, it was called the Viharhárs or Viharbükk, often the Big Tree, but never Normafa. The first time the name Normafa appeared in print was in 1861, in János Arany’s weekly newspaper, the Szépirodalmi Figyelő, but the term was already in common use around 1850. According to some theories, it was named after an opera singer who sang the opera Norma at the foot of a tree.

The Normafa has always had a central role in the life of Budapest, with a centuries-old tradition of hiking and the first skiing spot in the country. With no snow yet, Normafa is a mecca for hikers and cyclists, with a wide range of trails to choose from. From the Normafa Ski House, a few minutes’ walk along the ridge towards the Erzsébet kilátó on János Hill brings you to the Anna-tér, where children can enjoy a recently completely renovated playground.

Continuing along the ridge, the path joins the blue circular path signposted “Blue Circuit”, which you follow along the ridge to the former Sport Hotel, where you turn right through giant beech trees and return to the ridge to reach the Libegő. The playground at the upper station of the Libegő awaits children in the shade of the trees. You can also walk up the asphalt path from the Libegő, or take the stairs to the Erzsébet kilátó on János Hill.

After exploring the lookout, continue towards the Átjáró-barlang, which is a cave, from where you can occasionally enjoy views of the Nagy-Hárshegy. A few metres walk along the tarmac road will take you to the Átjáró-barlang where you will join the green triangle signpost, and after about a quarter of an hour’s walk you will pass under the Libegő and reach the Tündérhegy quarry rest area.

After the quarry, the green triangle sign turns left and after a few metres you arrive at Tündérhegy. Continue following the green triangle until you reach the green stripe sign, where you turn right. Following the green stripe sign, you will pass the Disznófő spring, then the Kossuth monument, pass under the Anna-rét, on top of the slopes of the Kis-Egyetem and the Nagy-Egyetem, until you reach Normafa.

And for those who are looking forward to winter, there is good news: the Hungarian Ski Association has already opened the season on 21 September, with a Family Ski Day, so all you have to wait for is the snow. A continuation of the Kis-Norma, the Nagy-Norma and the previous trails, the Harangvölgy is still very popular with skiers, beginners and experienced skiers alike will find a place to enjoy the terrain, but you can also bring a sledge if the kids want to.

The built heritage has also been improved in recent years: the renovated and extended Normafa Ski Hut was inaugurated in autumn 2023, and fits perfectly into the space and has been carefully designed inside to retain the charm that the natural surroundings of the building give to the hiker. You can also enjoy a delicious lunch here, if you haven’t already had with the well-known strudel or lángos. All in all, the Normafa will always be a favourite green oasis not only for our grandparents, parents and for us, but also for our grandchildren – if we look after it!

Photos:

Anita Bander

Facebook – Normafa Park